I'm sending this post from an almost abandoned monastery just below ebc. Numerous prayer flags flap and there are several flag poles and numerous groups of square red and white columns. Only a couple of monks tend the place and I can see old decaying cells.
Yesterday we had a tough ride of 75 k uphill to reach ebc. I was only kept going by the prize of being able to say that I had biked to ebc! I was expecting a french style seasonal campsite but instead there are about 50 brown yak hair tents, very substantial with sleeping benches along the walls and a central stove for heating and water. I was snug as a bug in my sleeping bag. However the camp looks not unlike a refugee camp because there are land cruisers parked everywhere. Despite years of travelling in Asia I was also surprised to find souvenir vendors both outside and inside the tents. And yes we finally saw mt everest in the evening sun. Huge, dramatic and with interesting ridges.
More about it tomorrow.