Thursday 24 July 2014

Dubrovnik: Walls of Stone, heart of Art

Swimming in the Adriatic, exploring the city, walking out to modern art gallery.

Had a relaxed start to the day with a fine swim from rocks at Lapad. The Adriatic is lovely to swim in, clear and warm.


I enjoyed walking around Dubrovnik and having long pauses for coffee at cafes with good views. This included a long view down one of the city streets and later on a view over the harbour. I visited the Franciscan monastery and looked at the old pharmacy, which was a rather static museum piece and needed a lot more explanation. The modern pharmacy just outside the monastery felt more alive with the various healing oils they were selling. I skipped the religious paintings and instead enjoyed sitting in the cloisters. Dubrovnik has an annual festival and this year strap line is "Walls of stone heart of Art". I felt as though I have experienced both.


In the afternoon I walked out to the modern art gallery, this was one of the galleries I had not seen on yesterday's museum blitz. I was almost the only visitor. The Croatian work was rather derivative, I could see quasi Renoir, Cezanne like works. Upstairs was a retrospective exhibition of a painter who is 90 and paints works that have a theatrical quality with figures interacting. His work was much easier to understand after seeing film about him. He had been to art college just after the war and was a member of the Russian academy of arts, a reminder of previous alliances.


In the evening I swam again and then had an excellent supper of sea bass with a mass of Swiss chard and potato at Hotel More in Lapad, recommended by Trip Advisor

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