I planned a two week walking and
safari holiday in South Africa to celebrate finishing 21 years of working on
the UCLH Infectious diseases service in February 2017. My holiday plans
included visiting The Kruger national park, the coast at St Lucia and then
walking in the Drakensberg. I had barely started my holiday when I had to
return to the UK because my mother was very ill. I had one day walking above the Bylde river,
I saw the old gold towns and had one night in the hotter low veldt in the
Kruger park.
During 3 days in Joburg I enjoyed
seeing the Apartheid museum and biking round Soweto. I was touched to read
about the struggle against apartheid because I lved through that. I enjoyed
seeing the skill that mandela used to enable South Africa to have democratic
elections. Joburg is developing rapidly as a black African city. I experienced
the racist attitudes of people who moved there during apartheid. South
Africa is palpably unequal and feels very divided. (gini co-efficient is 0.65).
The poorest 20% of the South African population
consume less than 3% of total expenditure, while the wealthiest 20% consume
65%. I was surprised how strong the
influence of the Dutch Calvinists is in the rural areas.
Political discourse is limited
the because of the dominance of the ANC. Whilst this was necessary initially as
a counterweight to the years of white domination. Now greater political
pluralism is needed. I enjoyed using the Gautrain and seeing the emerging black
middle class in Joburg.
It was surprising to see my old
student friend, Nkoasana Dlamini in a senior government position and having
political problems as minister for social affairs. She later lost the
presidential elections in Dec 2017 within the ANC.
I read Andre Brinks book a “Dry
White Season” which took me back to the apartheid era with a strong description
of the Afrikaner society then. He explores the importance of taking stands
against injustice even if there is a large personal cost. I read Zak Mda’s book about his life and
struggle to develop his theatrical career under apartheid. That was an
interesting apartheid and post apartheid era history. I became very aware of
the deep legacy of violence in South Africa and the consequences this has
especially for young women.
I came away feeling uneasy and
will probably not visit SA again as a tourist.
Dry White season, Andre Brink
1980
Sometimes there is a Void. Zakes Mda. Faber, Strauss and Giroux, New York 2011
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