Baltic overview

Beautiful landscapes, interesting cities and dark histories  

This is a brief overview to accompany the daily blogs that I wrote whilst biking in Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. I wanted to go soon because I fear that this is a fragile region and the politics could change quickly. 

The three countries have interesting geographies. Lithuania has beautiful rolling countryside with forest that goes down to the sea. Visiting the Curonian spit where a huge, calm lagoon has been created by Baltic tides was a highpoint. Here I enjoyed the sea, the forest and sand deserts. Thomas Mann picked a good place for contemplation in having his summer home there. (July 15) Estonia is synonymous with lakes and I was surprised at the vast lake Pepsis (July 20) which is the border with Russia. 

The countries also felt different, Lithuania is palpable Catholic and Vilnius is packed with Baroque churches. (July 12) Latvia felt more prosperous with large estates and country gardens (July 18). Estonia, surprisingly, was the most modern despite a huge sparsely populated landscape, and is embracing Internet technology. 

The countries are small in scale; in Latvia and Estonia the capitals dominate the country. Estonia only has a population of one million and it is impressive that it has several universities, and Tartu university is long established (July 19). When I visited the Kunu art gallery in Tallinn I wondered how the population could support a major art gallery (July 22). The influence of outsiders is very visible, Vilnius feels Polish because its previous kings had close links with Polish nobles. Riga feels very cosmopolitan. Estonia feels Scandinavian and models itself on Finland. One also sees Scandinavian design in Estonia. 

Their cultures are Hanseatic with beautiful old cities such as Tallinn and Riga. Folk culture is important there with Baltic festivals of singing and dancing and we saw a local one in the forest in Munamagi Hill Estonia (July 19). The revolution in Estonia started with a singing festival where people could protest. There is also a strong forest culture with woodcarving of all types. 

Their location is important; because they are on the edge of mainland Europe they have all been invaded many times and had different rulers. Looking at a map from 1900 I saw that Lithuania was part of the German empire and Estonia and Latvia part of the Russian empire. They were all occupied thrice in the 2nd World War, first by Russia, then by Germany and then again by Russia and that lasted until 1990. These occupations have had a profound effect. The Lithuanians and Latvians took to the forest and had a prolonged guerilla war against the occupier and were hoping that the West would come and rescue them and were disappointed when this did not happen. 

They also have dark histories, Vilnius was a centre of Jewish learning and culture and 33% of the population were Jewish. The Jewish museum in Vilnius captures the impressive Jewish life and culture in Lithuania. A shockingly efficient genocide was then perpetrated by the Germans in 1941 with some help from the local Lithuanians. The museum of genocide in Vilnius is set in the former KGB headquarters and conveys the different types of torture and oppression that the Germans and then the Russians practiced against the local population. (July 12) One of the most chilling exhibits was an organogram for the KGB showing the different branches such as torture and spying.

I read “The Baltic Revolution” whilst I was there and found Anatol Lievens’ analysis very helpful, sadly he wrote his history in 1994 and there has been a lot of change since then. 

I fear that these states remain vulnerable. They are proud of their EU membership which has brought major benefits to them and the euro is the currency. My travels confirmed this feeling of fragility and Putin could easily decide that he wants to support the 30% Russian speakers who live in Estonia and I’m not sure that the EU would be able to stop him. 

Biking was a great way to see the countryside and experience the changing landscapes even though it rained every day. The northern summer light gave me many beautiful evenings notable the one exploring the art nouveau architecture in Riga. 

It was an interesting holiday, I enjoyed being in new countries and learning about their different histories.

The Baltic Revolution: Estonia, Lativia , Lithiuania and the oath to independence.
Anatol Lieven
Yale 1994

St Petersburg 5 to London

Erata museum, flying to London

Checked out and took a taxi to see the Erata museum, described by Lonely Planet as one of the art sights in St Petersburg. It is set in a converted warehouse in a previously industrial area. It is a very light airy museum spread out over 5 floors with very contemporary work. They were very enthusiastic about modern art. I enjoyed a few pieces, there was a nice sculptures comparing the right and left halves of the brain with the left half being organised angles and clear pathways but the right a growing organic mass of connections. There was a beautiful large sculpture of aluminium pieces called "earth worm cast”. There were witty pieces; one painting of a kitchen included a Mondrian fridge. But it did feel that it was trying a little too hard and the explanations were too long.

Went to the airport by taxi and was there ridiculously early by my standards! I caught up with my blogs. On the flight I finished reading the Baltic Revolution by Anatol Liven which I am glad that I read but it did take too much of my reading time. But it did give me a good insight into the history, and especially problems like the Baltic Russians who are a large part of the community in both Latvia and Estonia. It was much better than the Balkan History by Misha Glenny that I struggled with last year.

Took the tube home and it was good to be in a multi- cultural society again. Both the Baltics and Russia were mono ethnic with pale skinned northerners.
My Russian add on was a fascinating part of the trip and I loved being in Piter. But it also diminished the Baltic States a little. They seemed so small and Russia is so big.

St Petersburg 4

Russian museum. Nice cafes, feeling very energised by being in Russia.

I experienced 5 centuries of Russian life through the art in a series of 90 rooms starting in the 11c and ending in the 21c in the Russian museum The Lonely Planet guide was an excellent companion explaining the significance of each group of rooms. There were beautiful works there, starting with 4 rooms of lovely icons, then portraits of the people that Peter engaged to build his new city. The church featured very little. One could see this educated enlightened city developing. There were also large genre pictures for the late 19 c capturing Russian life. The 20 c section had a large collection of Malevichs and one saw the constructivist style. I was very excited to see so many together. I also love his pictures of Russian people. The twentieth century art was very impeded by Stalinisation. I also ran out of energy, another time I would concentrate on the last twenty rooms. There was also a folk art section beautifully displayed but very poorly labelled with no maps. That could have been a small museum in its own right. It also reminded of the beautiful folk art in India which is now celebrated and seen as representing the diverse aspects of life there.

Came out of the Russian museum really blown away by the variety of the collection. Had a very late lunch in the literary cafeteria on Nevsky prospect where Dostoevsky had his last cup of coffee. Now there is a mannequin sitting at a desk writing in the hall and a modest upstairs dining room with fine views down Nevsky prospect. The Japanese mother and daughter next to me were using Google translate and pictures to negotiate the menu with some difficulty.

I had a quiet evening sitting by the canals watching the world go by and had a low key supper in a small cafe where locals were popping in for drinks and food.

I have not had enough time relaxing days in St Petersburg, too full on with so many interesting museums to visits.

St Petersburg 3

Hermitage, palace overload, Cézanne and Picasso in the General Staff museum, supper at Dom

Took the Metro to Alexander Pr, I had to buy a card and the charge it up, but not expensive. The signage of the metro is good and in English.

Went into the Hermitage and promptly got lost in the poor signage and spent 40 minutes wandering round the smaller Russian rooms. Then found the main section. I found the decoration overwhelming, rooms with malachite pillars, vast chandeliers and a seemingly unending series of rooms. The art was good and I especially liked the Rembrandts and the Dutch art, but I found the opulence over-powering, and it must have helped precipitate the revolution. Although the art in Hermitage was shown to visitors and the court so much would have been unseen and of course inaccessible to ordinary people. I felt very glad that we have had national free collections for two centuries in the UK. I enjoyed the views of Tenriverneva. I rested in a courtyard and then went over to see the impressionist art in the General Staff Museum . The signage here was appalling, and I again found myself walking through exhibitions I did not want to see, about imperial life in Russia. Just as I was about to give up I went to the 4th floor and found their amazing collection of Cézanne and Picasso which was a real treat. I enjoyed the display far more on plain grey walls, so I felt rewarded at the end of the day. I am glad to have seen the Hermitage but once is enough.

Had an excellent supper in a local restaurant "Dom" beside the canal and I had lovely views of the evening light on the building opposite. I ate a plate of different veggie pickles and mushrooms and then a very fine smoked white fish with a Tartare sauce and good Russian white wine, all for £25.

St Petersburg 2

Walking the city, Fifa obstructing my cultural programme, fresco fatigue, Othello at Mariinski II

Had a fine view of the city rooftops over breakfast. I then walked through the local neighbourhood visiting the St Nicholas church which was full of worshippers and tourists. I passed the new Mariinski 11 so popped in and bought an expensive ticket for a performance of Othello.

Walked along the river admiring all the boats and naval stuff. I then climbed the 262 steps up to St Isaac dome for the view across the city. I then walked along Nevsky prospect which has many impressive shops and lots of cafes. I had planned to visit the Russian museum but I was turned away because it was closed for a Fifa conference about the World Cup in 2018. I was cross that Fifa has such arrogance and power that it can close a major cultural attraction for 2 days

I then went into the Church of the Spilled Blood with its amazing multiple domes of blue and yellow. Inside the frescoes are awesome with panels depicted the life of Christ and the disciples. Russian orthodox churches don't seem to have pictures of the crucifixion which makes them less violent. But I also tire of frescoes quite easily; they don't have the depth of paintings. I tripped as I was coming out of the church and put a fashionable hole in my jeans and a nasty graze on my knee so I took the fastest route home along the canals. Fortunately I was able to rest my knee just long enough before going out to the opera which was also close by.

The Mariinski II theatre is a beautiful modern theatre with sleek elegant lines. The wall is made of a yellow onyx panels and inside pale wood seats. Othello was set in naval uniform and around a lighthouse. It all felt very appropriate for St Petersburg. The conductor was Valery Gergiev with Maxim Akenso as Othello and Asmik Grigorian as Desdemona. As I watched it I compared it with Othello I saw at the NT last year with Rory Kinnear as Iago and that was helpful to see Iago’s destructiveness. The first interval seemed very long but then I discovered that everyone went up a floor to sip champagne so the second and third interval passed quickly as I joined the crowd, caviar bread sandwiches were also quite cheap. The women were quite smartly dressed with many wearing high stilettos, the men were not impressive, there was also a huge range of casual clothes. I wore a black silk outfit that is my smart outfit when I am traveling, no need for stilettos.

First impressions of St Petersburg the architecture is a treat, the canals are beautiful and link the city in a different way. It is also not too crowded; people seem appreciative of the culture here.

It also fells very strange being here after 10 days in the Baltic States, they were such small countries and Russia oozes power and confidence.

Breakfast view of St Petersburg