tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-24734653523917487992024-03-13T19:55:48.936+00:00TravelsDianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.comBlogger197125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-22023101645889750732024-02-01T13:11:00.002+00:002024-02-01T17:04:26.423+00:00Capital Ring 8 Osterley Lock to Hanwell June 2018We walked here on the hottest day of the year and were delighted by the English landscape, with birds and abundant summer plants and a cricket match at the end of the day.
A hot day with temperatures hitting 24. I was late meeting Robert and Helen at the Boston Manor tube station start because the Piccadilly Line was crowded with travellers for Heathrow. They gave me a beautifully chosen birthday prezzie of a novel about a river by Ester Kinsky. We retraced our steps to the Grand Union canal, a heron perched a large weir. Coots, swans and ducks swam on the canal. There were many canal boats with flower and even solar panels on their roofs. Elthorn Waterside is grassed in now and we would see small trees there. We walked along to the Hanwell flight of locks. Our path tracked the river Brent for the rest of the day. The undergrowth next to the river was abundant and looked like Middle Earth. The huge beautiful Wharnecliffe viaduct built by Brunel in 1838 dominates the valley. The small bricks used in construction reminded Robert and I of N India Moghul architecture. We had excellent ice cream in Hanwell close to the church. A maze, set up to celebrate the Millenium is still growing. Bitterns field, a huge open a wild meadow only mown once a year had with gentle afternoon light on it. Perivale park contained several local cricket matches were taking place with British Indian teams. The Wembley dome dominated the horizon. Crossing the busy, busy A40 on a footbridge, was a low point of the walk. I enjoyed seeing Ealing hospital, where I worked in 1986. Then I used to take the Tube to Boston Manor and bike to the hospital. Our last 2 miles were on tarmac through 1950’s suburbia and we enjoyed seeing the roses in bloom. We ended the day with beer and crisps in a large pub next to the railway station. Highlights had been the Brunel viaduct and it was surprising how english the walk was.
We came home by the central line. I have never been this far out on the central line. Danny Dorling wrote a fine small book imaging the people who might live at each stop on the central line. As a social geographer the book had a broad scope.
good: Brunel viaduct, ice-cream in Hanwell
Bad: journey out to Boston Manor
surprising: luxuriant over growth by the paths
References
“River” by Esther Kinsky 2017
“The 32 Stops”, Danny Dorling
Penguin 2013
Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-3767797619794073212024-02-01T12:59:00.003+00:002024-02-01T13:00:20.624+00:00Baton Rouge: US Hansen’s patients, Southern Hospitality, Mar 2019I visited the US National Hansen’s Disease service, United States of America in March 2019. I enjoyed seeing patients there and interacting with the physicians and researchers. I enjoyed Cajun food and Southern hospitality.
Barbara Stryjewska and John Prestigiacomo are the United States Hansen’s Disease physicians in the national centre in Baton Rouge and we discussed their patients. Many came from Costa Rica, Micronesia. Marshall Islands, and Mexico. They genotype the leprosy mycobacterial strains infecting the patients. One patient from Mexico had both M. leprae and M. lepromatosis infection and was experiencing typical leprosy. I lectured on my work describing my voyage into leprosy with my research and clinical work. I aimed to improve patient outcomes. My map showing the UK patients coming from 34 different countries was admired. I talked about using single monthly doses of Rifampicin, Oxfloxacin and Minocycline as treatment.
Barbara took me to Houmas house, an old plantation house, with southern elegance and fine gardens. The evening light was beautiful on the azaleas. We walked around the grounds. Then had interesting cocktails with gin, lime juice and Prosecco in the elegant bar. We shared crab claws and shrimps and I had shrimps on aubergine. Barbara left Poland in 1988, came to the US and retrained. She is a thoughtful clinician and worries about the patients and the adverse effects they experience from the steroid drugs needed to treat leprosy reactions
The next day we talked and saw videos of American patients who had acquired their leprosy in the USA. This is due to infections carried by armadillos. One seventy three yr old man was diagnosed late after presenting with a Borderline Lepromatous reaction with oedema and pain and it took him months to be diagnosed, not surprisingly no-one suspected leprosy. He was diagnosed when a skin biopsy was done to investigate his unusual skin rash. A woman from Oregon developed leprosy after a visit to Louisiana 20 yrs ago, maybe having encountered armadillos in Louisiana. Probably many people are infected with M leprae after encountering armadillos but only a few develop disease. The videos of patients are great teaching tools. We lunched in a local cafe, deep fried oysters as a starter then catfish with rice and were given with a discount for us being in US forces through working for the USNHD.
The big cities of Los Angeles, Chicago, New York and Miami have the highest numbers of leprosy patients with many patients with reactions, like the patients in my clinic in London. I hope they will start using the Enlist Severity Score in the USA, we developed this as a tool for monitoring disease severity. The social worker was interested in the New Face for leprosy and some patients there might participate. I shared the Lancet New Face article with some of the patients here, Pedro and Dante who were interested in the project.
In the afternoon we drove downtown and scrambled up onto the levee next to a full Mississippi. We had supper of sushi on an open air terrace with a beautiful view of the river. Tugboats were plying up and down the river. We were close to a huge bridge with boats moored, a destroyer and a river boat. The sun set and the river went many shades of blue. It was a beautiful moment. Working for the US government gives them safety but many restrictions. They attend few conferences, and these have to be approved.
The next morning, I meet with Linda Adam’s group of scientists at the Louisiana State University. They are working on armadillo models of neuropathy, doing drug testing for leprosy in the nude mouse model, and doing M .leprae strain typing, there are armadillo associated strains which are passed between humans as well. M lepromatosis, causes many cases and all types of leprosy in Brazil. I saw the armadillos, pairs of brothers living in cages. They beat their feet against the cages, a sad sound.
I enjoyed these days in Baton Rouge, seeing patients in the USA, and the armadillos are transmission of leprosy here. I enjoyed talking to the small group of leprosy scientists here and appreciated the evening beauty of the Mississippi.
Sadly John died of Covid in September 2020. He is one of the few people I know to have died. He was very devoted to his Hansen’s patients. He also had diabetes.
Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-43213380794686334452024-02-01T12:31:00.000+00:002024-02-01T12:37:16.905+00:00Carville – unique history of leprosy and a Louisiana leprosarium March 2019Carville is an important museum located in the first state run leprosarium in the USA. I visited it with Deanna Hagge after seeing contemporary leprosy patients in the USA Hansen’s Disease service in Baton Rouge. It is on the banks of the Mississippi in cotton growing countryside. I first visited Carville in 2005 when there were still a couple of elderly leprosy patient living there. The bright southern light lit the long corridors, and I imagined the patients who had lived there. My memories were strengthened by photos of that visit in my London clinic. Now the site is a museum and captures the life and the history of Carville, Louisiana with patient stories. There were leprosy cases in the Southern USA at the end of the 19 century who needed treatment, so an institution was established for them, initially run by Catholic nuns, the “Sisters of charity”. In 1917 the institution became a state institution and later a federal one. There is an introductory video on leprosy with the commentary by David Scollard (former Head US of Hansens Diseases Service). The display captured the ingenious adaptations patients made to help their lives including special wheelchairs. The studies on developing an effective treatment for leprosy where done here, promin, an early injectable leprosy antibiotic in the 1940’s. Racism was present with segregation of black and white patients, requiring duplication of everything for staff or patents. Black patients experienced doubling of stigma. The changing governance of leprosy at Carville, as a US government institution was shown in posters. The role of the sisters of charity who initially ran the leprosarium was beautifully explored in documents and posters.
“The Star”, a leprosy patient lead publication was written and produced here and they have all the copies. It was an important patient voice and I explored patient stories. The role that veterans played was discussed as patients and advocates. Surprisingly there is no information about where the patients came from and where they had acquired their leprosy. I am interested in this because in London, UK I have seen patients from 34 different counties. Contemporary leprosy with current treatments as recommended by the World Heath Organisation and provide free to government leprosy programmes everywhere was explained. I featured in posters I made with Sandy Patience in 1996 (funded by Lepra) in the media section. Patients were given a number and often took aliases on entering the institution. Inmates escaped to get drunk, have sex and gamble and could then be imprisoned. The need to escape to do these activities gives it a uniquely American perspective. Mardi gras is important In Louisiana and they celebrated other festivals such as Halloween. They played football and golf and the other local teams had to come and play in Carville, occasionally the Carville teams won.
The museum concluded with information about contemporary leprosaria with posters on treatment and biology. The work on the museum has been done by Elizabeth Schnieder, a historian.
We drove round the institution, stopping at the infirmary and the cemetery, with 400 US military style gravestones. The museum was rich in detail and I hope I can visit again.
Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-13303589247939089192024-02-01T12:16:00.001+00:002024-02-01T12:36:01.820+00:00Whitney plantation; stories of slavery 2019an outstanding slavery plantation museum and fish supper in the Mississippi Delta
Deanna and I drove out to the Whitney plantation museum where slave narratives, fact and experience are combined. The slave trade is documented with posters and the pope sanctioned the slave trade in 1474. The discovery of America opened up the possibilities for the slave trade. The narrative started with the forts in Ghana where the slaves transitted. The middle passage and slave auctions were shown There were hundreds of slaves on each plantation The degradation of being a female slave, the violence towards slaves, the civil war, the poverty of selves after emancipation were explored. The plantations neede free labour to run economically. Slave narratives had been captured by the federally organised writers programme in 1936. We were given a slave to identify with, I was a young girl. Our site guide was a young black woman with peroxide blonde hair and saw the Baptist chapel the centre of the plantation. We visited slave quarters and experienced the sugar refining process. We walked round the cramped kitchen. The owners lived in opulence with a two storey house and a walking area at the back. The plantation went down to the Mississippi river. The plantation owner was a childless woman who adopted a child. The slaves were dehumanised by being given just one name. Many babies died with malnutrition. There were two memorials, one to the lost children. The other one comprised pieces of black stone with lists of slave names interspersed with their stories and photos, a beautiful and moving memorial. Some of black women were photographed there. Deanna and I sat and absorbed the stories and experiencing the emotions they generated. The museum is very popular, with many guided tours. Deanna was moved and thought that all Louisiana children would understand their history better after visiting.
It was one of the best museums I have visited with the powerful combination of stories and photos. I was glad to have read books about the slave trade,1 the underground railway2 and David Olusoga’s book, a about black Britons and seen the films “12 years a slave “and “Djano Unchained”. I have thought of the museum often since the Black Lives Matter movement emerged in the USA. It is an important part of USA history.
The past French colonisation of Louisiana is seen in the Catholic churches there. We explored the cemetery with tombs with many French names. We drove up and by the levee and across the Mississippi, with amazing views. The flat landscape reminds me of Holland, with fertile agricultural land. We had supper in a local fish place, sharing a large bowl of boiled shrimps, potatoes and mushrooms with spicy Cajun flavours. I need to practise peeling prawns. We had coffee and beignets, a New Orleans sweet at a branch of cafe du monde. I enjoyed being with Deanna, we share an international perspective and being single women. She enjoys to sharing her local knowledge on people’s lives.
It was an excellent day. The museum is one of the best history ones I have visited. I enjoyed eating local food.
1. Rough Crossings: Britain, the Slaves and the American Revolution Simon Schama, BBC Books 2005
2. Black and British. A Forgotten History. David Olusoga Macmillan 2016
3. The Underground Railroad. Colson Whitehead Doubleday 2016
Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-89110058987448692272021-02-22T18:25:00.002+00:002024-02-01T12:34:59.870+00:00New Orleans 2019<p></p>Jazz and meals, Antoine’s, Louisiana. Exhib, preservation hall jazz, snug habor jazz.
I had Sunday brunch at the jazz restaurant Antonine’s and my friend Tom Gillis’s brother played in the band there. I mentioned this to the maitre d’hotel and was given an excellent seat in the room where I watched them play. Antoine’s oozes 150 years of restaurant history. A photo of a young Bill Clinton was next to seat. There were many New Orleans folk having brunch. The jazz was easy. I ate oysters and had glass of Buck’s Fizz. I chatted to Tom’s brother and photographed him and his group in the bar.
In Jackson square and saw an excellent exhibition about Hurricane Katrina and the local response. The exhibition had an impressive collage of voices and responses. One experienced the storm and the horror of the aftermath. the gap in emergency service provision, became very clear. The national guard should respond to flood damage but they lacked leadership and were unable to do so. The disaster itself was on film the responses and the people crowding into the super bowl for shelter. I remember seeing pictures of those people. Docs at the Charity hospital responded and were then vilified. Maybe the lack of response is linked to the absence of a national health service and fragmentation. Survivors stories were told, one guy returning said his memories of 30 years of playing jazz with people kept him going and could not be taken away. A video installation of different people speaking about being New Orleaner ended the exhibition.
There was excellent explanation of why the levels were damaged and the different modes of water damage. V interesting and reminiscent of Holland. My grandfather, a water engineer would have appreciated the display.
I enjoyed excellent exhibition about the many forms Mardi Gras in NO and Louisiana, it is a remnant of Catholicism. I had not appreciated how formal the Mardi Gras is. I experienced being atop a float in a video installation. I knew more about Louisiana culture after this museum visit.
I queued for the Preservation Hall band show at 18.00., I sat inside and enjoyed a 6 piece band playing Dixieland jazz, 2 trumpeters, drums, guitar and playing regular favourites. I walked across the French quarter to a bar called Snug Harbor to hear an excellent group play modern jazz, the highlight of the day.
I joined a small walking tour of the French Quarter(FQ), by a retired academic. We walked down to the river and looked out over the river front. In the FQ we looked at the original houses with had 4 doors. We examined later houses and the iron work. We looked at Tennessee William’s house. We saw the houses associated with the slave trade, and with a fire, that started from a shrine to the BVM. Yellow fever was common until the 20c and it’s cause unknown. Nobody wanted to hire the new men off the ships cos they were a high risk of dying so men hoped for a mild illness then they could be hired. It was an excellent tour and gave me a good over view of the FQ. I had a Louisiana lunch of shrimps and rice in a large cafe with open doors. Then browsed the shops round Jackson Sq. wandered back to my hotel and went to the airport early by taxi. I had an anxious flight to Atlanta cos a storm had delayed our flight. I had 40 mins to spare and ran across the airport, just catching the flight.
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3vYzLDkLRmQ/YDP2vbwE65I/AAAAAAAAAXE/GGi7weP2GmY6o8huHSAy3R359A4SZsM6QCLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img alt="" data-original-height="645" data-original-width="468" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-3vYzLDkLRmQ/YDP2vbwE65I/AAAAAAAAAXE/GGi7weP2GmY6o8huHSAy3R359A4SZsM6QCLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" width="174" /></a></div><br /><br /><br /><p></p>Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-53685598486551601512021-01-08T17:47:00.005+00:002021-01-08T17:49:35.935+00:00Capital Ring 12 Highgate to Stoke Newington <p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YauQSFFMRR0/X_iIWwp4GvI/AAAAAAAAAV0/jLwjrBb5LAURlImWWrJHtdK1sp78DFElgCLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: justify;"><span style="font-family: arial; font-size: large;"><img alt="" data-original-height="396" data-original-width="468" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-YauQSFFMRR0/X_iIWwp4GvI/AAAAAAAAAV0/jLwjrBb5LAURlImWWrJHtdK1sp78DFElgCLcBGAsYHQ/image.png" width="284" /></span></a></div><br /><br /><p></p><br /><p></p>Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-51971743765908132352020-03-29T12:29:00.000+01:002020-03-29T12:29:38.245+01:00Diana's Year 2019<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt; text-align: justify;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">A busy and fulfilling year; with retirement parties, doing the Trans-Siberian rail journey, coping with Brexit politics, attending People’s Vote marches and now the general election. I launched the New Face for Leprosy project in Ethiopia and globally. Being in Wales for the Hay book festival was a cultural highpoint. I have enjoyed theatre, music and arts. My community gardening project to improve Union Square is developing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">I retired at the end of June having worked in the NHS for 38 years. I was the leprosy consultant at the Hosp Trop Disease for 25 years. Some of my patients have been under my care for the whole time. I worked as a consultant in Infectious diseases for the first 21 years in the UCLH team and was given a UCLH long service award in May, the celebration reflected of the diversity of the institute with staff from across the globe and doing jobs ranging from surgery to lab testing to nursing. My leaving party in July was organised by my colleagues. People whom I had worked with and mentored gave short talks that covered my work in leishmania, leprosy, Evidence based medicine, Leprosy Review and my battles with WHO over leprosy policy. David Scollard sent a video from the US on our collaboration. About 100 people came, including patients, family and friends. I was given a unique pair of earrings that have HTD logo one side and LSHTM logo on the other. These were commissioned by a Canadian jeweller by my colleagues.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">A jazz band run by a friend of mine played whilst we were eating and drinking. It was a warm affirming event.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">Handing over the work has been much easier because I have an excellent successor, Steve Walker who has worked with me for years and is the first black consultant at HTD.</span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">He lead the party organisation team.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">I started my retirement with a month in Russia with a week on a Political Tours course and then travelling </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">the Trans Siberian railway trip from Vladivostok to Moscow. Political Tours are organized by journalists to see all aspects of a country. Ours was lead by Russian journalist Leonid Ragozin. We met people across the political spectrum in Yekaterinaburg and Moscow especially political activists (Vladimir Milov), the human rights problem in Russia and the need for an opposition was palpable from these conversations. Putin has increased wealth for average Russian and the country is visibly improving, but he has rewarded his cronies and prevents the opposition functioning.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">Three friends (Rita Krishna, Vincent Stops, Ann Munn) joined me in Moscow and we flew to Vladivostock in Far East Russia and crossed Siberia by train, 9, 2230 km over 14 days, 7 trains. We had stops in Khabarovsk, Ulan Ude, Listvyanka, on Lake Baikal and Novosibirsk and Tomsk and explored different parts of Siberia. I wrote about each stop on my blog.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">The Russian trains are well designed for travel, with 4 bed couchettes and plentiful hot water from the carriage hot water heater for making tea and coffee. The train travels smoothly at 50 km/hr, we appreciated the scenery and explored stations and their food on stops. Russian city architecture is varied with many 19 century buildings and museums, Lenin statues remain in many central squares. The stations are attractive and well maintained. We saw much forest but also big rivers and the huge, 220 km long Lake Baikal. Siberian culture with smoked fish, birch bark goods and pine nuts are everywhere. Rita organised the trains in London. Rita spoke some Russian, much needed since few people outside Moscow speak English. It was a great adventure, I loved the vastness of the country, I found the culture fascinating and I enjoyed the fish meals. I would be happy to return and explore different parts.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"> </span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">My project “New Face for Leprosy has been exciting. When new leprosy patients go on the net they see pictures of people with severe disabilities, not that it is a curable disease. I started a project taking pictures of treated people working and enjoying life and with messages of hope. We photographed in Ethiopia in Sept 2018 and published in The Lancet on World Leprosy day 2019. Saba and I presented the pictures to Ethiopians affected by leprosy in Gondar. One woman said “ We look beautiful”.</span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">We have taken this positive message to meetings, notably the International Leprosy Conference in Manila in September and patients were excited by this new approach.</span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">I have spent two weeks in India with a photographer Tom Bradley. We were hosted by Lepra India and had a fascinating time hearing about the stigma people experience and how they overcome it.</span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">I met a tabla player whom I treated 30 years ago in Dhoolpet, he played his tabla in a reprise. We plan an exhibition in 2020 and I shall do this work elsewhere.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">The political events have been time consuming and depressing. I was on the People’s Vote march in Oct when parliament voted against Brexit. Jeremy’s Corbyn’s failure to take a remain position was disastrous for reconsidering Brexit and allows the message of “Get Brexit Done” to triumph. Boris despite his manifest failures is PM again. The election results are profpundly depressing. I think we are now in for an extreme right wing politics staring with Brexit. Extinction Rebellion is exciting and their message and approach is hopeful in this dark time.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">I have seen many good plays this year, highlights include a female Dr Faustus at The Globe, Rosmerholm with a flood covering the stage at the end. Seeing Pinter plays at the new Pinter theatre remind me of his powerful writing. The Don Mullin photos were a powerful documentation of his work in photographing many conflicts. The drawings of Kathe Kolwitz at the BM documented the pain of loss. Far East prisoners of war used art to survive imprisonment in a Liverpool exhibition, Secret Art of Survival. I was deeply touched because my mother was a Japanese PoW and I mused about her survival strategy. “Sorry we missed you” is a contemporary film by Ken Loach that captures the destruction that low wage jobs in delivery companies wreaks on families.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">My retirement plans include more work on the New face project, also writing a book about leprosy based on patient stories. I shall teach on leprosy. I look forward to more time for photography, travel, gardening, time with friends and family and in Brecon.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">Enjoy the Solstice and may 2020 be a good year.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-47552141014242935872020-03-12T19:22:00.003+00:002020-03-12T19:24:22.558+00:00Moscow: Capital cathedrals, good food and luxury<div class="MsoNormal" style="font-family: Cambria, serif; font-size: 12pt; margin: 0cm 0cm 0.0001pt;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">We had fun in Moscow, we had a sense of achievement after our Trans Siberian journey. We explored the Red Square, St Basil’s and the Kremlin. Surprisingly the Kremlin has the 4 cathedrals and I suffered saint and icon overload. Moscow has a many luxurious shops where Rita shopped. We eat excellent food.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">We stayed in a luxurious Airbnb apartment in Arbat with 3 bedrooms, an elaborate bathroom, open plan kitchen and living room. V different to the usual public built flats in Russia. Our German friend Ulricha joined us for a long weekend, starting on Wednesday. We talked about our 9,000 kms trans Siberian rail journey.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">We enjoyed using the Metro, at our station a sign said, “we speak English”, a phenomenon not seen elsewhere in Russia where little English is spoken. Our first stop was Red Square, sadly filled with chairs for a tattoo. We had coffee and cabbage pie in a café and worked out our plans. We visited St Basil’s that afternoon. It is a vast religious structure with too many chapels, elaborate and gold icons. My head span with all the saints and their stories. There is no central area for worship. St Basil’s is best from its outside view with its quirky beautiful architecture, inside the religion and devotion is too heavy. We stayed on Red Square eating dessert in the elegant cafe Bosch, for me a beautiful tartiflor with melted chocolate. We walked home through the Alexander gardens enjoying the hydrangeas in flower and then struggling crossing the roaring 6 lane traffic road. I enjoyed a Russian classic “herring in a fur coat” (covered with a beetroot glaze) and a cold cucumber and seafood soup for supper.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">We shopped in the GUM department store on Red Square, now a collection of luxury shops. Rita and Vincent bought dark blue St Petersburg royal porcelain.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">The next day at the museum of Russian art we saw a baroque church, now a museum piece with an elderly gent caring for the icons and giving Ann a detailed explanation. We had coffee and snacks in a hipster café, then went by taxi to Red Square getting good views of central Moscow. Our Kremlin Tour started with Russian history from with the Great Patriotic war. The soldiers at the eternal flame change guard hourly with high goose steps. We looked at the map of the 1812 victory, and the monument to the Tsars. We queued to enter the Kremlin, but there was space inside. Four cathedrals dominate the Kremlin with many icons and church stuff. All the Tsars are buried in the last church. It is a powerful illustration of Russian history and the entwining of state and church, communism being a small part. We enjoyed the city views in nice small garden there.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">We had champagne for Ann’s birthday in the flat, then a celebratory meal in Pushkins café, Ann and I had delicious trout with fish mousse and asparagus and white Russian wine. My pudding a fruit terrine with a mint sauce. Home by metro, tired after a long day.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">On my last day Rita, Vincent and I and visited the Art Deco hotel Metropole, the location for the book, “A Gentleman in Moscow” by Amor Towles which I read on our Trans Siberian journey book and Rita was reading. Seeing the hotel and gives my reading depth. Regular hotel trips </span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">are run by a fan that one can book. Vincent and I took the metro back to Smolenska station. I went by taxi to Belorussian station then to the airport on the aeroport express. I chatted to a Russian civil engineer working in Solihull, UK on her summer holiday and leaving her 4 children with their grandmother at their dacha. I enjoying more Russian food at the airport</span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;"> </span><span style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">and flew to London.</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri" , sans-serif;">The days in Moscow were a good end for the month travelling across Russia. Lonely Planet had recommended doing the Trans-Siberian from east to west and we enjoyed the monuments, good food and luxury in Moscow and it had a Russian context.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-86368609903674365052020-02-16T17:26:00.000+00:002020-02-16T17:26:16.919+00:00The cut out girl
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<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="line number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="page number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="endnote text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="table of authorities"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="macro"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="toa heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Bullet 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Number 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="10" QFormat="true" Name="Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Closing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Default Paragraph Font"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="List Continue 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Message Header"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="11" QFormat="true" Name="Subtitle"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Salutation"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Date"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text First Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Note Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Body Text Indent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Block Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Hyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="FollowedHyperlink"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="22" QFormat="true" Name="Strong"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="20" QFormat="true" Name="Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Document Map"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Plain Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="E-mail Signature"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Top of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Bottom of Form"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal (Web)"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Acronym"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Address"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Cite"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Code"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Definition"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Keyboard"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Preformatted"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Sample"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Typewriter"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="HTML Variable"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Normal Table"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="annotation subject"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="No List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Outline List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Simple 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Classic 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Colorful 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Columns 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Grid 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 7"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table List 8"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table 3D effects 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Contemporary"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Elegant"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Professional"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Subtle 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Web 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Balloon Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" Name="Table Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" UnhideWhenUsed="true"
Name="Table Theme"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Placeholder Text"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="1" QFormat="true" Name="No Spacing"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" SemiHidden="true" Name="Revision"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="34" QFormat="true"
Name="List Paragraph"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="29" QFormat="true" Name="Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="30" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Quote"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="60" Name="Light Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="61" Name="Light List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="62" Name="Light Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="63" Name="Medium Shading 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="64" Name="Medium Shading 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="65" Name="Medium List 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="66" Name="Medium List 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Emphasis"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" QFormat="true"
Name="Subtle Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" QFormat="true"
Name="Intense Reference"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" Name="Bibliography"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" SemiHidden="true"
UnhideWhenUsed="true" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="41" Name="Plain Table 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="42" Name="Plain Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="43" Name="Plain Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="44" Name="Plain Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="45" Name="Plain Table 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="40" Name="Grid Table Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46" Name="Grid Table 1 Light"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51" Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52" Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 1"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 2"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 3"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 4"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="50" Name="Grid Table 5 Dark Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="51"
Name="Grid Table 6 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="52"
Name="Grid Table 7 Colorful Accent 5"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="46"
Name="Grid Table 1 Light Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="47" Name="Grid Table 2 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="48" Name="Grid Table 3 Accent 6"/>
<w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="49" Name="Grid Table 4 Accent 6"/>
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<!--StartFragment-->
<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">This beautifully written book
that explores the feelings of being a hidden child during the holocaust and the
psychological trauma she lived with.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bart,
an oxford historian, realizes a family member, Lien, does not figure in family
histories. His grandmother and Lien had a terrible row and she cut off contact.
Bart approaches Lien by email. He befriends her and she tells her story. She
was a Jewish child in Amsterdam and is hidden by his family in Central Holland
during the second world war. She retells her story and we experience it thorough
her eyes. She was 8 when her parents gave her for safe keeping to their friends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>On her 9<sup>th</sup> <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>birthday she heard from them but then silence.
He captures the pain she experienced, silence, then tears.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She had forgotten a lot. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It was not easy being a refugee, she had to
work almost as a house maid in one home. She and another refugee escaped at one
point. She did not understand what was happening, then become silent and
withdrawn, then a slow anger built up, initially she was warm but then hot.
Feeling unwanted was a major part of her experience. Aged 12 she was raped
frequently by a family uncle. After the war she worked in child care and then
trained as a social worker.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When she did
talk about her rape it was acknowledged by the family but not acted upon.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She had different religions, brought up
Jewish, then followed Dutch reform, at university she joined the Jewish student
society. She married a Jew Albert and enjoyed the Jewish rituals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She is now Bhuddist. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">She repressed many feelings, it
was all too painful.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later in life she
acknowledged her refugee status. She takes Bart to Schouwberg, the departure
point for Dutch Jews to the concentration camps and they look at her parents
names. She was helped by a conference in Amsterdam for child refugees and the
conversations it opened up.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The then
mayor of Amsterdam was himself a child refugee. She makes peace at Auschwitz by
performing Buddhist rituals there over a week with her Dutch friends. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">She was v sensitive to being
excluded by the family.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>At her wedding
she was surprised that people were joking “is the husband Albert good enough
for our Lien?”. She was hurt being excluded from the family funeral
announcements of Pa Heromas death.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She had
a small birthday party that she did to mention to Ma Heroma.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The two then exchanged angry letters, Lein
wrote that she felt a second rate person in the family. Ma heroma had no
further contact with her. These letters one can write because it an emotional
release but one should not send them because they <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>can hurt so much. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Bart the historian is
fascinated by Lein’s story, he backs up his work academically checking on the
files of Dutch informers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Through his
interest he gains Lein’s trust. She visits Oxford and meets his family. In her her
Amsterdam flat and she introduces him to her friends as “my nephew who will
write my story”. The detective work has produced family healing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Occasionally there is too
much background, such as the description of the Dutch informers, it gives useful
context. His fluent Dutch makes him at home there. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">There are two journeys in
this book; Lien’s story of being a child in hiding, and van Esses story of getting
Lein to talk, the background research that he did on Dutch informers. It is his
journey in writing the book.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Bridges
have been rebuilt within the family.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>describes his visits to Holland, seeing the
towns and understanding Dutch history well. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Being half Dutch there were
many personal resonances for me in the book. I recognized the grandparents generation
and the academic exploring Holland. My mother repressed her PoW experience, she
was in Japanese prisoner of war camp aged 18-20. She coped by rarely talking
about the experience.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It made her a
survivor when she faced problems. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri",sans-serif; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">So I admire Bart van Esse in
getting his aunt to talk about her experience. My mother kept her story inside.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-63287090138873017262020-02-13T19:54:00.001+00:002024-03-08T13:19:14.842+00:00Captive Artists the unseen art of British Far East prisoners of war
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<br />
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">This beautifully researched and curated book documents the art
produced by Far East Prisoner of War (FEPOW) whilst imprisoned during the
Second World War. Their life in the tropics, and how they coped with captivity
is captured. It highlights the importance of art in documenting war. It arose
out of work done with FEPOWS who were looked after by for their tropical
diseases by the medical team at Liverpool School of Tropical Medicine after the
war. The team developed an oral history project contacting families of FEWPOWS
and documenting their lives post captivity.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>These pieces were produced secretly because their captors forbade doing
art. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Meg Parkes, daughter of a FEPOW, has researched FEPOW art and
wrote the first section. Eight well known artists including Ronald Searle
documented the experience<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>of captivity,
her father was in Japan and nearly died of starvation there. The young men were
beautiful and hopeful before they went to war. They returned on repatriation
boats to Liverpool and Southampton. Photocopies of artwork by the prisoner AKKI
was given to Dion Bell in the 1960’s.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>She tracked him down, a Basil Akhurst who trained as a draughtsman
before the war and post war worked as a cartoonist in Blackpool and identified
his work in the Changi museum in Singapore.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>She found 69 more artists who contributed pieces. The beauty of Far East
is captured in small pictures and maps and<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>the tropical flora and fauna. Each artist has a half plate with their
art, military rank, birthplace, camps and photos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The oral histories from families are moving,
often their fathers did not talk much about the war.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Geoff Gill is a physician who looked after the FEPOWS and their
tropical diseases with Dr Dion Bell in Liverpool STM. Later their psychological
problems were recognised.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The range of
medical problems experienced by the FEPOWS included malaria, dysentery and
tropical ulcers which are illustrated here. An early aspect of camp life is
captured with the cartoon of a VD clinic in Changi in 1942.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>One needed humor to cope with the captivity.
The prisoners created solutions to the camp problems and created a citizens
army that prepared yeasts and had distillation going. This resulted from having
men with different skills such as biology and metal working together. The
picture of Captain Mackintosh at his microscope is beautiful capturing an
expert looking for diseases.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Religion helped people survive. The padres kept services going
and supervised many burials. The cemetery picture by padre has a quiet stillness
.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">One family have kept a wooden carving of St George their father
carved for the chapel, it was used by Japanese as dart board<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Jenny Wood is an archivist at the Imperial War Museum, in her
chapters she describes how art was used to keep morale up. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It created by men who could easily die. Searle
had dreadful experiences especially working on the Thai –Burma railway and was
fortunate to be survive. She contributed the oral history project and the final
appendices have comments from the families. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The art work has been kept by the children. Many parents did not
talk about their experience until they were v old.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They realized that they used art to survive
imprisonment. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">This book has a resonance for me because my mother and aunt and
grandparents were FEPOWS in Java. My grandfather was a colonial water engineer.
I wonder how they survived?<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She was with
her mother and twin sister which must have helped hugely.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>My grandfather was in another camp which
created anxieties. They passed the time playing games.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is very boring being a prisoner especially
for a teenager.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She spoke little about
the experience. She mentioned the chaos in Java after the war.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>She described being given English fried
breakfast on the boat back to Holland that they could not eat and the boats
were followed by hungry seagulls eating the scraps. Her experience made her a
survivor, when things went wrong her survival instinct kicked back when
experiencing fractures in her late eighties. She was the fastest elderly lady
to mobilise after her hip fracture surgery in 2014. She occasionally mentioned
the viciousness of the guards.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Mostly
she coped by not discussing it. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The absence of women artists is because the British FEPOWS were
all male and in the British Army. However as my family history shows women were
imprisoned.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Australian women have
written about their ordeal. The enquiry would be strengthened by having some female
voices or a discussion of how to capture those voices. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">This beautiful book is a testament to the human spirit. These
men could die at any time but they created pieces of art as a survival
strategy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This book captures their
survival then and through the oral history project gives one a link to their
post war lives. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
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<br />
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<br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We caught the train to
Tomsk at 5.00am, so early that we went back to bed on the couchettes. We had a
fine Sunday lunch on the terrace of our hotel, fish soup and pie, Ann had
blancmange with pine nuts for dessert and red Russian tea with added
herbs. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The gulag museum was
closed. I had been fortifying myself for reading the accounts of life in the
gulag. </span></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETWEYNHJo-g/Xf3kuQ4kRLI/AAAAAAAAAQI/wn9cOOVih48yWIDRTlO5IQKnrknINu_MQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tomsk%2BBotan%2BGardens.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ETWEYNHJo-g/Xf3kuQ4kRLI/AAAAAAAAAQI/wn9cOOVih48yWIDRTlO5IQKnrknINu_MQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Tomsk%2BBotan%2BGardens.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Central Tomsk has university buildings, the medical faculty adorned with
statues of great men. The botanical gardens had elegant 19 th c building In
Siberian parkland but the garden was closed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tOZmhbGPOeA/Xf3lAO94RuI/AAAAAAAAAQU/4G0JrEhZW08jy8hLc3VhviIpO2uIbrYhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tomsk%2Bview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tOZmhbGPOeA/Xf3lAO94RuI/AAAAAAAAAQU/4G0JrEhZW08jy8hLc3VhviIpO2uIbrYhwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Tomsk%2Bview.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We explored the tower above Tomsk in the history museum. I counted 7
steeples from there. We were amused by an art installation about Russian
sweets, full of sweet wrappers, including a biscuit tin celebrating the defeat
of Napoleon in Moscow. We walked along streets of old wooden buildings,
attractive old designs. We had smoked fish and beer for supper. I wandered
round the university square later, enjoying the evening light and relaxed people.</span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-afbjTZ6DqUg/Xf3lVvakZsI/AAAAAAAAAQg/-LoaNmkW0ZM7jrDmul64ZmwjG4eOZ2bJwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Tomsk%2BI%2BLovejpg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-afbjTZ6DqUg/Xf3lVvakZsI/AAAAAAAAAQg/-LoaNmkW0ZM7jrDmul64ZmwjG4eOZ2bJwCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Tomsk%2BI%2BLovejpg.jpg" width="320" /></a></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><o:p></o:p></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;">Tomsk, ideal place to
spend Sunday where we enjoyed food and views.</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-68024192390688096302019-12-20T09:54:00.000+00:002019-12-20T09:54:15.841+00:00Russia 7: Novosibirsk: art and railways
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We arrived in Novosibirsk
early in the morning after a 2 night journey from Irkutsk. We stayed in the modern Azimut hotel and
enjoyed their renown buffet breakfast a day early. We walked through the town and visited the
Alexander cathedral filled with icons.
The Roerir museum is Novosibirsk’s link with the international world. He
was born in St Petersburg and he left Russia after the revolution. He explored
the Himalayas and Tibet with his family and friends in the 1920’s and produced remarkable
work of brightly coloured views of mountains with religious figures included.
The museum had a short film about his work but omitted his important work
arguing that cultural work should be protected during war, The Roerich pact. He
never returned to Russia but is highly regarded here and in India. Fortunately
I learnt more about him from Wikipedia.</span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OiwuqsCANac/XfyZKDcatdI/AAAAAAAAAPo/hNOewsUIHYQxHzJxTjBUPVpIugdlvObTACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Novo%2BRoerir%2Bgall.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OiwuqsCANac/XfyZKDcatdI/AAAAAAAAAPo/hNOewsUIHYQxHzJxTjBUPVpIugdlvObTACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Novo%2BRoerir%2Bgall.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">The state museum
illustrated the development of Novosibirsk, driven by the railway development
at the end of the 19 c. with Russian and English panels with many photos. I
enjoyed an exhibition of Black and White photos by a local woman, capturing
people in poses that told stories. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WdxJ1AQZ6wc/XfyZTkehlLI/AAAAAAAAAPs/mbaMoaA3pCk5XCxQuC96SPk2-Ki1R5THQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Novo%2BPhotographer.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WdxJ1AQZ6wc/XfyZTkehlLI/AAAAAAAAAPs/mbaMoaA3pCk5XCxQuC96SPk2-Ki1R5THQCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Novo%2BPhotographer.jpg" width="240" /></a><br />
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We enjoyed the evening
light on the central square with presided over by a statue of Lenin and a huge
early 20 century music venue with vast arches, built when the expanding town
oozed confidence.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><br /></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jHyUwicCQTI/XfyZcTNYQkI/AAAAAAAAAP0/xUZ-hfMZdQ8_FtGdtqjVImQx1Y-yCkDNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Novo%2Bsocial%2Brealism.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jHyUwicCQTI/XfyZcTNYQkI/AAAAAAAAAP0/xUZ-hfMZdQ8_FtGdtqjVImQx1Y-yCkDNgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Novo%2Bsocial%2Brealism.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I eat Siberian octopus in
a cafe and looking out on silver birches.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In Siberian towns we have enjoyed the summer evening light and seeing
families relaxing and street artists performing. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In Novosibirsk I learnt
about Siberian development, I enjoyed local art and saw how Roerir’s Siberian
work is internationally important. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;"><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;">Train stats 1820 km with
2 nights from Irkutsk to Novosibirsk</span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-75635147806947206372019-12-19T09:56:00.006+00:002019-12-19T09:56:56.938+00:00Russia 6 Irkutsk Siberian architecture and Volkonsky Decembrist museum
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Aug 8<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I walked down to the lake
before breakfast, maximising my walking time there. The Taltsy Museum of Architecture and
Ethnography<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>shows wooden architecture of
Siberia across the centuries in an open museum in the forest with rebuilt chapels,
watermills, and simple cabins. </span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #353535; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;">One cabin showed the administration in the 18th
century with the Tsar’s decree displayed. But the local administrators were not
paid and they relied on bribes for income. Living in a forest requires many wooden
adaptations to compensate for metal. Young brides were expected to bring many
sheets to their new marriage home. I enjoyed the museum. It reminded me of the
Welsh National museum in Cardiff with its collection of Welsh houses. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Our guide had learnt her
English in Irkutsk University in 1974. Her mother taught on Russian culture and
they had been to York University in the late 1960’s, so they must have been party
members. Her mother moved to the USA; after perestroika and now back to
Irkutsk. She has seen so many changes. Our guide’s grandmother who lived
through The Revolution had seen most social and political change. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WU5XRaeMnSQ/XftJFSUnQ8I/AAAAAAAAAPc/-GEeQyTAE0gKJcT98YPJqtFfEdfQ2_EoACEwYBhgL/s1600/Irkutsk%2BVolkonsky.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WU5XRaeMnSQ/XftJFSUnQ8I/AAAAAAAAAPc/-GEeQyTAE0gKJcT98YPJqtFfEdfQ2_EoACEwYBhgL/s320/Irkutsk%2BVolkonsky.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ann and I went by tram to
Irkutsk centre and visited the Volkonsky museum. This recreates the life of the
Decembrist exiles were exiled from St Petersburg after their plot in the 1830’s.
They were forbidden to communicate with their friends. Their wives were allowed
to divorce them. However nearly all their wives followed them and supported
their husbands in exile including writing many letters. They initially lived in
a small Siberian village and relocated to Irkutsk after receiving a partial
pardon. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They recreated their
intellectual lives impressively with reading, study, meals and soirées. The
house has been recreated room by room including library, music room, dining
room and a large drawing room. Their energy was palpable. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The garden was good to relax in. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We bought fresh food and
cheese for our journey in the Irkutsk central market, brimming with fish
sellers. We eat in a tiny cafe and took the tram back to the station. We had a
3 hour wait here for our late night train which departed at 00.01. Russian
railways provides sheets, duvets and towels and we slept well. We are on the
train for 2 nights. </span></span><!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-74299401346621716312019-12-18T10:18:00.002+00:002019-12-18T10:20:42.506+00:00Russia 4 Lake Baikal, fish and sunsets<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Aug 6-7<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We took the train from
Ulan Ude to Irkutsk in the daytime to enjoy the views and had not expected a 2
hours delay. Russian railway is rigorous in timetable observance. Notices in
the carriages give the arrival and departure times from stations, if more than
5 minutes passengers are allowed down for a stroll and I often wander the
length of the train. Many people are having a smoke. So we were amazed to have
a 2 hour delay on our train to Irkutsk. We wonder if The Russian rail service
give pay delay compensation, I doubt it. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We went to the Baikal
resort Listvyanka by taxi. Here we had a home stay, our host had an impressive
collection of samovars and was drying his mushrooms there. He grew raspberries,
potatoes and flowers in his garden. We enjoyed baked Baikal fish for supper on
the lakeside. The fish market sellers had different varieties of Baikal smoked
fish, which we bought for a picnic lunch, some fishes were leathery like
kippers, others had white flesh. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The lake Baikal Museum had interesting maps of temperature and
ice thickness and fish activity over the year. A fine glass model captured the
depth of the lake.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The lake with the
water, sky and forest is good for photography.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We took a local ferry across the lake to port Baikal, there were about
40 foot passengers and several cars, a huge old station remains from the days
when there was a trans Baikal railway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--IR0s1L-p1s/Xfn8bLpGXRI/AAAAAAAAAO4/C8UxshM1imgb9_88BuLTfiIo8y2oBhFFgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/lake%2BBaikal%2Bferry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--IR0s1L-p1s/Xfn8bLpGXRI/AAAAAAAAAO4/C8UxshM1imgb9_88BuLTfiIo8y2oBhFFgCLcBGAsYHQ/s320/lake%2BBaikal%2Bferry.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The sunsets on Baikal
were impressive, I could happily have stayed longer here doing lake Baikal
walks or bike rides.</span></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-79266771157989287352019-12-17T09:49:00.002+00:002019-12-18T10:10:22.994+00:00Russia 5 Life on the train<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Aug 9<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We had 2 nights and a day
on the train travelling from Irkutsk to Novosibirsk. We easily got into the rhythm
of life on the train. I made morning coffee using water from the water heater
in each corridor.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The provodnista
provides glasses in metal holders to each passenger. They are the best way of
carrying hot liquids around. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We eat our bread
and cheese and veggies. Russian cucumber is tasty with salt. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">In the early morning the
landscape was misty. The landscape changed over the day, from forest to a
wetter terrain. We saw many silver birches and different pine trees. The ground
became swampier. We saw many dachas with small vegetable patches. The potato
harvest should be good in Russia this year. Around towns there was evidence of
light industry with pylons and generators. We passed through 21 stations with a
long stop at Krasnoyarsk station. This has a beautiful neoclassical style tiled
roof. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The train travels quite
slowly, about 50 km/ hr very different to the intercity trains in the Uk. We
relaxed and read our books and phones, leant Russian, walked up and down the
train and slept. We bought extra food on the stations, pies stuffed with potato
and cheese. We drank Kvas, a brown summer drink with a clean cool taste made
from fermented rye bread. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We had an excellent
supper in the dining car, Ann posted a popular photo of me eating herrings and
drinking champagne. An evening storm blew across the landscape and water leaked
in through windows left open.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We rose early because we
reached Novosibirsk at 6.00 am.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Irkutsk to Novosibirsk 52 hrs</span><span style="font-family: "calibri";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />
<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MEZqzZ9CFwU/XfiksP62r7I/AAAAAAAAAOY/TapXK54tPf4Jyi0JvlXIowwQeX-e6jpsACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Russian%2Bteaglasses.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MEZqzZ9CFwU/XfiksP62r7I/AAAAAAAAAOY/TapXK54tPf4Jyi0JvlXIowwQeX-e6jpsACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Russian%2Bteaglasses.jpg" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-70425792687803770652019-12-16T09:43:00.001+00:002019-12-16T09:43:24.748+00:00Russia 3 Ulan-Ude : Buryiat culture and skinny dipping in Lake Baikal
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KNyZGmniCzE/XfdReg59SjI/AAAAAAAAAN8/DeylKf4CIso1Iyyn8tYl-Q3MU5RnpWSsACLcBGAsYHQ/s1600/Pilgrims%2BMongoliajpg.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KNyZGmniCzE/XfdReg59SjI/AAAAAAAAAN8/DeylKf4CIso1Iyyn8tYl-Q3MU5RnpWSsACLcBGAsYHQ/s320/Pilgrims%2BMongoliajpg.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ulan Ude is the capital
of the Buryiat republic, a Mongolian culture. Nomads who lived with horses are
now settling in cities, 30% of the locals speak Buryiat and it is being promoted
in schools. The Buryiats are keen on the sports wrestling, archery and horse
racing. We visited a huge Tibetan bhuddist monastery outside Ulan Ude. Bhuddism
was partially repressed during the Soviet era but is now flourishing there. We
walked round clockwise spinning prayer wheels. The preserved body of a local
saint is on view and people visit him for good luck, he looked hunched up and
dried out. Many Mongolians were being photographed in their best clothes at the
shrine. Many people have Mongolian features with pale round faces and dark
hair. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ulan Ude has the largest
Lenin head statue in Russia. We walked round a pedestrianised area beside the
cathedral and saw 18 and 19 century wooden houses. The theatre was an Art Deco
building with Mongolian additions. Gulag victims were remembered with an
affecting monument with faceless woman and child beside a barbed wire fence and
the caption “What for” which conveys the incomprehensible horror of the gulag.
We had a fine view of the town from a rooftop bar where we sipped Russian
champagne and nibbled pickled veggies. The main fountain near Lenin’s head had
a 19 century theatre and music timed to its water displays Many people were out
enjoying a summer evening. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Lake Baikal is a 2 hour
drive from the city. We had an enthusiastic guide, 24 yr old Ivan who is very
enthusiastic about the lake. The lake is vast, fed by 300 plus rivers and
between 2 tectonic plates. The lake is 80 km at its widest point and more than
636 km. long. It feels like a clean sea. On the west side there are many beach
huts. We walked down to the lake and swam, I skinny dipped because I had
forgotten my swim suit. Ivan described the beautiful ice sculptures that are
formed by ice and wind in the winter.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On our journey back to
Ulan Ude I asked him about politics and found that he supported the protests
occurring now in Moscow. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ulan Ude feels both
Mongolian and Soviet. One can see the history of the area in the architecture
from the 18c to the 21st and the marks of the Soviet era are visible.</span></span><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-5019077273300233792019-12-15T10:15:00.001+00:002019-12-16T09:38:02.985+00:00Russia 2 Khabarovsk Remote but interesting city<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">July 31- Aug 1<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Our first train journey
was from Vladivostok to Khabarovsk, 588 km over 8 hrs. We needed our passports
to board the train and the bookings were checked electronically by the
provodnitsa. The trains are well appointed in second class with 24 berths per
carriage. I slept well in our four berth couchette, with blankets and sheets
and neat reading lights and two toilets per carriage. We had breakfast of
porridge before getting up. The in carriage samovar has been replaced by a hot
water heater that we are using avidly. It was useful to have a short journey
now because we know what to expect on the train. I enjoy walking up and down
the carriage and looking out of the windows. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We had 2 nights In Khabarovsk
located in the Far Eastern part of Russia, beyond Siberia. The town had two
dramatic cathedrals with glistening domes. Next to one was a huge modernist
second world war memorial with thousands of names, just reading them was
moving. We visited an excellent museum with displays about life in Russia
across the centuries and depicted a gulag camp in the 1940’s. There was a
fascinating display of political carpets made over the 20 century and
celebrating political leaders including Stalin and a female cosmonaut on a deep
blue background. In the evening we went on a river cruise and saw a huge bridge
and sunset whilst sipping Russian champagne.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>People were surprised that English travellers should be in Khabarovsk.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We liked the city, it
felt remote but laid back and was easy to walk around. The weather has been
very changeable, Misty in the morning, then hot at midday and with rainstorms
in the afternoon. </span><span style="font-family: "applesystemuifont";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-32444018537569435642019-12-12T15:27:00.000+00:002019-12-12T15:27:14.519+00:00New face India
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">This project went well.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I was in India for 2 weeks photographing
patients for the project to create positive images for leprosy.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I worked with Lepra India who are linked to
Lepra UK. They are really fired up about the project and gave us great
organizational support with getting patients on board for the project and arranging
our itinerary. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We had a new
photographer, Tom Bradley who has done many leprosy photos.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">We spent a week out in the field
visiting patients and seeing them work, one woman was harvesting cotton,
another chopping wood. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw cobras out
in the fields.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>People lived in neat
clean homes. In Hyderabad we visited patients in the Old City. I was reunited
with one of my patients from 40 years ago, a tabla player. He still played for
us accompanied by his 16 yr son singing. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Many patients had felt suicidal
when they were diagnosed. An educated engineer man described how he felt
unclean when diagnosed and self isolated himself from his wife. His sister, a
senior bank manager has still not visited him since his diagnosis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The violence being perpetrated
against women came into sharp focus. Husbands often visit for violence and
taking their wives hard earned money. One women who lamented that her husband
had left her was told by the male health team that she was better off without a
violent partner.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The Indian arranged
marriage system creates challenges because a diagnosis of leprosy can be used
against a girl to prevent her marriage. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">We had excellent support from the
organizations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Lepra UK have a House of
Lords event at the end of Jan and we shall have a small exhibition there and
one in India in Feb.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is great to have
such organizational enthusiasm. I think the moniker “new face and positive
images” creates a new fresh feel even though we then hear tough stories. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Getting ready for the Jan deadlines will keep
us focused. </span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Nov 2019<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br /><br />
<br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-33710881730231849912019-12-12T15:14:00.000+00:002019-12-16T09:37:45.607+00:00Russia 1 Vladivostok - Far East Russia <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">Had an excellent 2 days
in Vladivostok at the start of our Trans Siberian adventure. It is a huge port
and the day we arrived they were celebrating Russia Navy Day with parades and
an open air concert. We went on a boat tour round the harbor, the second bridge
was barely visible in the mist. We enjoyed the Arseniev museum with interesting
displays about the development of the area with sailors and traders and a
recreation of an explorer’s study. There was an interesting display of
modernist cloth from a Moscow factory in the 1930’s. We enjoyed the work of a
Mongolian artist the Namdakov Family who create dolls based on Russian folk
lore. I imagined myself as the village dispute settler. Many Chinese contributed
to the growth of Vladivostok. Russia shares a border with N Korea here. It felt
very Far East in Russia.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We are now starting our
journey of 9288 kms by train back to Moscow taking 5 different trains and 12
days and stopping in Siberia en route. </span><span style="font-family: "applesystemuifont";"><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-41326565483085205412019-11-04T11:55:00.000+00:002019-11-04T11:57:11.548+00:00Trans Siberian railway Vladivostok to Moscow<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Trans Siberian railway trip from Vladivostok
to Moscow, 9, 2230 km over 14 days, 7 trains, was as exciting as I had hoped
and I saw Russia’s politics and human rights on a Political Tours course in
Russia for my first week. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">We saw different sides of the country,
starting in Far East Russia then crossing Siberia. We<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>stopped at the vast Lake Baikal, 220 km long
and 80 km wide. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">The Russian trains are well designed for
travel, we had bunks and made tea from the carriage hot water heater previuosly
a samovar. The train travels smoothly at 50 km/hr, so one can appreciate the
scenery and we explored the stations and their food on regular stops. We had a
drink in Novosibirsk station on a long stop there.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Russian city architecture is varied with many
19 century buildings.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The central
squares are attractive with public buildings, museums and many statues of
Lenin. The stations are attractive and well maintained and the styles change
from East to West. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We saw much forest
but also big rivers and Lake Baikal. Siberian culture with smoked fish, birch
bark goods and pine nuts is present <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>everywhere.
We travelled as a foursome <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>(Rita,
Vincent, Ann and myself) in a 4 bed couchette and made our own coffee, tea and
picnics. Rita organised the trains in London. Rita spoke some Russian, Vincent
is a public transport expert, Ann first visited Russia in 1982 and again in the
90’s as an IT expert. Rita and I had previously visited St Petersburg and loved
the culture. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">I started my Russian month with a Political
Tours week organized journalists to help one see the different aspects of a
country and facilitated by Russian journalist based in Latvia. Leonid
Ragozin.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We met people across the political
spectrum especially political activists and social workers in Yekaterinaburg
and Moscow. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We met Vladimir Milov, opposition
activist in a Moscow subterranean bar, he described the hurdles Putin’s
government place on the opposition, needing 2.000 signatures on a nomination
for a city councillor election and being in prison for opposition
activities.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The police are unpleasant, other
inmates difficult in a shared jail and he worries about his dogs at home. A
week later he was again arrested for broadcasting about the current protests and
is back in prison. Marsha is a human rights lawyer struggling to get justice
for people in the opposition being arrested on trivial grounds. The judges
ignore well presented evidence by the defendants. For her Russia being part of
the Council of Europe is important because the final legal appeal is in
Strasbourg. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The human rights problems in
Russia and the need for an opposition is palpable from these conversations.
Putin has increased wealth for average Russian and the country is visibly improving.
Putin has rewarded his cronies and prevents <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the opposition functioning in many ways.
Ultimately this will undermine him, but it will take a long time. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<!--StartFragment-->
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-size: 12pt;"><span style="font-family: "arial" , "helvetica" , sans-serif;">This trip starts my retirement. I enjoyed
spending a month in Russia and the political Tour and great Trans Siberian
train ride complemented each other. I shall write more about both on my blog. I
have been amazed by the vastness of Russia, the low population (140 mill), the
different cultures, and the good fishmeals.</span></span><!--EndFragment-->
Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-68840730275327178172019-05-02T20:44:00.001+01:002019-05-02T20:51:43.576+01:00Diana's Year 2018<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The year in brief:<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had a wonderful Himalayan experience
walking in Ladakh. I enjoyed hosting friends in Brecon. I worked to improve the
image of leprosy “New Face for Leprosy” in Ethiopia. I protested with 700 000
others against Brexit on the people’s march. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">In August I walked for 10 days in
Ladakh, a dry Himalayan area in India bordering Tibet and Pakistan. There were
16 people (19-66 yrs) on an organized trek. Ladakh has high dry mountains with
beautiful rock formations.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Leh, the
capital is at 3200m and we walked to above 4,000m. We drove up to the Khardung
La pass, the worlds highest café and had lemon tea there. The rocks colours
range from red to brown, beautiful to photograph.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The highest points are decorated with
Buddhist prayer flags. We saw beautiful Bhuddist monasteries. The Indus starts
up here and the only trees are along the river. We walked, camped and had
interesting village homestays and talked to local people. The locals were
harvesting and drying their apricots; which I brought home for my neighbours.
They are Buddhist and so much less pushy than elsewhere in India and their social
structures are kinder to women.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">My latest project is
called “A new face for leprosy”.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>When new
leprosy patients go on the Internet they see only pictures of patients with no fingers
and toes; whereas contemporary leprosy is a treatable infection. I tell new
patients that they have a 21 st century curable infection and most will not
develop disabilities. The NGO’s working in leprosy need these graphic images to
raise money. My patients have overcome the stigma of leprosy and progressed
with lives and careers.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We aim to
capture this positive image of leprosy without stigma.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Myself, Saba Lambert one of my team based in
Ethiopia and Alex Kumar, one of my DTMH students spent time in Ethiopia in Sept
photographing and interviewing patients.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>We plan an exhibition for World Leprosy Day on Jan 27 2019 when there is
media interest in Leprosy. I celebrated the Ethiopia New year in Sept in Addis
Ababa with candles, bonfires and fireworks in the central square.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
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<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">My friend Steve Walker was
appointed to the tropical dermatology consultant post at Hospital for Tropical
Diseases (HTD), he is the first black consultant at HTD, I was the first woman
consultant in 1994.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Steve has worked
with me on leprosy for many years and will be taking over the NHS leprosy work.
I shall retire next June. I shall stay connected with leprosy work, a new
project will be writing a book about leprosy based on patients’ stories. This
will take me back to the places I have worked in the past.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I plan to cross Russia on the trans-Siberian
train. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I have explored black culture
this year after hearing my hero David Olusoga’s talk at Hay about his book “Black
and British” about the under-recognised contribution black people have made to
British history. I saw the play </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">the” Secret Lives of Baba
Segi’s Wives” (at The Arcola) by Lola Shoneyin, </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">about a Nigerian man who takes more wives to mask his infertility
whilst they find their own solutions. The audience included appreciative
Nigerians enjoying the tale and the music and ready to dance.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The novel “Stay with me” captures the
devastating effect infertility has on families and the lies that are told to
mask it, by </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Ayobami Adebayo </span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">a 30 yr old
Nigerian writer.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">My friend Iain Reddish died
rapidly from bladder cancer in February. We were friends for 25 years, having
met canvassing for the Labour party in Islington in 1992. He moved to Amsterdam
and I visited him there often, also enjoying reconnecting with my Dutch roots. He
was my first stop for political analysis and reflection. He had a humanist
funeral In Holland with people speaking briefly about this colourful, warm,
thoughtful man who wore amazing clothes.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I wrote an obituary, with friends, published in The Guardian on Apr 20<sup>th</sup>.
<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>His ex-partner (Alesha) and a Dutch
resident had euthanasia in June and escaped a debilitating neurological
illness. He is the second of my friends to die in Holland from euthanasia and
in both cases it given them peaceful final days and they said goodbye to family
and friends.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Using my mother’s house in Brecon
for hosting people has been a pleasure.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I love showing people around Brecon, walking in the Beacons and sharing
good food beside the River Wye.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>During
the Hay Literary festival I had many guests including Julia and Steph from
Paris, We heard Ben Zephaniah give a wonderful account of his life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Neil Young looks after the garden. I shall
make the house more mine with my own pictures and furnishings. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Gardening in the community
project in Arlington square connects me with my neighbours.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The trees there had fine red autumnal
colours. I have a new gardening project to nuture and improve, Union Square,
the square closest to my home. It is smaller and has visitors with dogs and the
beds lack colour.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are now official and
the Friends of Union Square and will be gardening there. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I enjoyed celebrating 70 years of
the NHS and I took cakes from the Labour party to my local practice and the
HTD. I worked for the NHS for 37 years, over half of its life.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I fear for the next 35 years. It is in a
fragile state. The Owen Sheers poem about the NHS had scenes from Wales including
Nevill Hall hospital, Abergavenny, captured the uniqueness of the institution
and how important it is to ensure that it lasts another 70 years. The effects
of 8 years of austerity are visible with poor social provision and rising
homelessness. I despair over Brexit and the many ways it will harm the
country.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I am frustrated by Jeremy
Corbyn’s failure to give a clear opposition voice against Brexit. I was energized
by the Anti-Brexit march, 700 000 people marched peaceably and good naturedly
through central London.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Cultural Highlights included
hearing “The Rape of Lucretia” by Britten at the Arcola theatre, and seeing the
play “ The Jungle “ about life in the camp at Calais which I saw with my cousin
Jane and nephew Matthew. This highlighted the survivors tales of people living
in the camp. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I had excellent weekends
away with friends, enjoying concerts at Snape Maltings <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and eating lobster in Suffolk with Rita. Irene
Allen and I found the leprosy museum in Bergen with its pictures of 19 century
patents very moving. I was walking in Haut Savoie with Les and Vera when France
won the World cup ad shared French joy. I explored a volcanic lake in Tanzania
with Saba. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="line-height: 19.0pt; margin-bottom: 12.0pt; mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: black; font-family: "calibri"; mso-bidi-font-family: Calibri;">Enjoy the
Solstice and may 2019 be a good year. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="ydp7d768ee5yiv8693884739" style="background: white;">
<span style="color: #26282a; font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 8.0pt;">https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2018/apr/15/iain-reddish-obituary<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-51088932398610895252019-01-28T12:48:00.001+00:002019-01-28T12:48:11.885+00:00Celebrating Meskel: Ethiopian New Year
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<span lang="EN-US"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">In Ethiopia I enjoyed Saba’s
hospitality, seeing her new home with her family Gaby (husband) and Leo (son),
excellent food and the Ethiopian celebrations in Meskel square. The political
situation in Ethiopia has improved hugely with the new prime minister allowing
democracy. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I have followed Saba’s different homes around
Addis I enjoyed staying in her latest home, her German father’s house. Built in
the 70’s with a large open plan house with huge picture windows across the city
and a vast copper fireplace. It has ample areas for sitting, a smaller dining
room. The house has public spaces, and no rooms for studying or having
guests.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Saba and Gaby have a challenge
ahead in modernising it but will end up with a lovely house.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>They have put down wooden floors to replace
the carpets, taken out a bar and made a TV room. They have created a
study.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The walls are decorated with her
father’s pictures including a fine collection of Ethiopian crosses and an icon.
They have painted the bedrooms white and hung their own pictures there. I
enjoyed sitting in the garden, especially in the mornings, with nice views over
Addis. alt (2,200 m) The plants reflect the local subtropical highland climate
with a huge cactus like tree and roses, which grow so well there and in ALERT
grounds.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
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<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">On Sunday we relaxed and enjoyed showing Alex
the city centre with the palace and my favourite the 1960’s modern national
bank building that looks like a space station. We visited the botanical
gardens, high above the city with beautiful afternoon views.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The yellow mescal flowers were blooming and
Alex photographed us there. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">I stock up on coffee in Ethiopia and Saba took
us to a supermarket to shop for coffee. I bought some new brands as did Deanna
Haage, a colleague based in Kathmandu. Alex loves shopping and bought
interesting scarves made from Malian and Ethiopian fabrics and leather goods in
a local craft market. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We had excellent meals in Addis, Sunday lunch
of burgers in the trendy converted warehouse with an East London vibe, followed
by ice creams at a new shop, Leo recommended strong chocolate and hazelnut
flavours, a winning combination. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We eat
with the leprosy group in a Greek restaurant where I had tasty pieces of
braised Nile perch.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>After our hospital
work we sipped triple fruit juices in Kaldi café, these are a combination of
avocado. mango and water melon layered like a cocktail. We had supper in the
Italian club which is covered in Juventus memorabilia and had aubergine
followed by fish. On the first day I had Ethiopian lunch in the hospital with
spicy lentils and vegetables (Ethiopian fasting food) and bread. At Saba’s home
we had Ethiopian and Italian food, and fine French patisserie to celebrate
Meskel. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">We celebrated Meskel, Ethiopian New Year, in
Meskel Square with an Indian leprosy doctor friend Joydeepa.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is a religious celebration like Easter
and each locality has a bonfire and people give each other yellow meskel
flowers. From the NTD conference we had tickets for the VIP area and I enjoyed walking
along the empty streets. We joined the crowds and struggled walking thorugh
them, we never reached the VIP area. People squeezed up and made space for us
to sit with them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Priests and religious
people in traditional white clothes blew on goat horns and banged drums and processed
around the square. Everybody lit and held up taper like candles. it was a
beautiful sight, with the candles forming gentle curves of light along the square.
The fire was lit by two Ethiopian popes There was a large firework display and
we celebrated the New Year, everyone was very relaxed and happy, there was no
aggression.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>it was lovely sharing this
event with Ethiopians. it was both a local and national event.<o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">Ethiopian politics has improved hugely with
the new president Abiy Ahmed allowing democracy. He has released many people
from jail, including the father-in- law of my Now London based post doc Edessa
Gobena. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>He has ended the long dreary war with Eritrea
going since 1998. All my Ethiopian friends feel happy with him and the new
direction he has taken the country in. Gaby sends him social media messages every
day to encourage him.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The week we
arrived there had been demonstrations about rights of the Oromo people.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Some
people saw this as a test of his authority, he has a gentle peace loving
persona but he was able to crack down on protesters and show his authority. I
hope that this political improvement is long lasting Ethiopia has long needed a
more open political system. <o:p></o:p></span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">My visits to Ethiopia are so enriched by
Saba’s warm hospitality, I connect better with the country and my work has an
extra dimension. I enjoy the good food and seeing the Ethiopian politics evolve
in a positive direction</span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "Calibri Light","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-69772297218608384192019-01-28T12:40:00.000+00:002019-01-28T12:40:04.031+00:00Creating a New Face for leprosy Lancet photosDianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-40597420983541837862018-11-26T19:38:00.000+00:002018-11-26T19:38:04.140+00:00Starting the “New Face for Leprosy” project in Ethiopia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qist3SCSRUg/W_xI6zB5hQI/AAAAAAAAALs/MASFa0y3D2QlnNPI6zfYxNXQTosRcsLqgCEwYBhgL/s1600/AK%2BAddis%2B2018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qist3SCSRUg/W_xI6zB5hQI/AAAAAAAAALs/MASFa0y3D2QlnNPI6zfYxNXQTosRcsLqgCEwYBhgL/s320/AK%2BAddis%2B2018.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">Alex Kumar with Berkie at her weaving co-operative Sept 2018</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: Calibri; font-size: 12pt;">I visited Ethiopia with Alex
Kumar and with Saba, and Berkie’s daughter</span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>we photographed and interviewed leprosy patients
for the New Face campaign. I enjoyed the Neglected Tropical Diseases (NTD) conference.
We celebrated Ethiopian New Year with fire in Meskel square.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Ethiopian politics have improved the new
prime minister Abiy Ahmed allowing democracy since he took up his post in April.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">We launched our New Face for
Leprosy campaign in Ethiopia in Sept 2018.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>I first visited Ethiopia in 1994 to learn about leprosy and have leprosy
projects there since then. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The New Face
campaign aims at improving the image of leprosy and we have a small grant from
the LSHTM social engagement project to support this work. The project team
comprises myself, Saba Lambert our leprosy team member in Ethiopia and Alex
Kumar, a doctor and photographer who was my DTMH tutee in 2016. Saba is
passionate about improving the lives of leprosy patients through listening to their
stories and helping them.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Alex has
photographed public health in many settings. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Alex photographed patients in several
locations. A taxi driver posed by his income generating vehicle and a boy beside
his shoe shine business. Several women run a weaving co-operative producing
beautiful white cotton embroidered with Ethiopian designs. Alex spent £100
there on cloth, one of their biggest spenders. I brought home a pan holder
decorated with faces styled on Ethiopian murals.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Berkie leads the co-operative and was thrown
out of her community when her leprosy was diagnosed, she overcome many obstacles
related to her leprosy and now empowers others. She talked at a leprosy meeting
and at the NTD conference.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Her daughter
is a psychology student and she interviewed patients for us.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Many revealed that they had been suicidal at
times.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The taxi driver had been illegally
deported from UEA when his leprosy had been diagnosed and we published his
story in Leprosy Review. We are translating their narratives and plan an
exhibition for next World Leprosy Day (Jan 27 2019). Some of the patients did
not want their pictures to be shown in Ethiopia because they had not disclosed
their diagnosis to their family and friends, but they did not mind their
pictures being shown overseas. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
people with leprosy wanted photos to give their families, these have to depict
them looking serious, tthe favoured style for portraits here. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I visited ALERT, the leprosy
hospital and AHRI the research centre.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;">
</span>In the hospital I reviewed a young man with bad erythema nodosum
leprosum.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This is the painful inflammatory
complication that patients may experience after successful treatment.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This man in his late 20’s had completed hid
multi-drug treatment but he needed high doses of steroids and nearly died from
steroid related complications. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">A leprosy research day preceded
the NTD meeting. Wim van Brakel presented his findings on stigma showing that 40%
of patients had poor mental health and 20% had suicidal thoughts, we found this
as well when interviewing patients for the new Face project. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>These negative feelings can be reduced by
counselling especially when it includes a human rights based approach. I talked
about improving the detection and management of reactions in leprosy patients. I
have argued in recent talks that WHO should be providing steroids to the
national leprosy programmes because so many patients require them to treat the inflammation
which complicates leprosy. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">This was my first attendance at
the NTD network conference which links the various NGO’s working on NTDS, WHO
and governments and promotes cross sectoral collaboration.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>This year held in the attractive modern African
Union building in Addis Ababa. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I
appreciated the strong patient voice in this meeting with Indian patient
advocates speaking at the opening session. I enjoyed small group work in a
session on telling NTD stories with patient input. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It is vital to talk with the patients about
how their story might be presented in the media and be prepared for it to be
twisted in its presentation. Pitching stories to the media is a vital part of
NGO work and it is critical to have patient consent for their stories to be
told. The conference is collectively keen on behaviuor modification especially
the WASH (water access, sanitation, Hygiene) initiative. But it is difficult to
get people to wash their hands even when there is water.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We are reinventing old truths long known, the
Victorians knew that sewerage disposal was important and Balzaget built sewers
for London, my grandfather knew that sewerage was important and was designing
clean water systems in Indonesia in the 1920’s. more recently<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>the Indian prime minister Narendra Modi has
launched a national access to toilet campaign which should help disease control
and empower women in India. Compassion now has its own WHO department. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The first night the Leprosy group
hosted a conference dinner with music and photos with a positive image of
leprosy. The </span><span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Trachoma initiative (TTI) hosted the final dinner with many
photos of the progress<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>TTI work<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>over the years and a quote from my colleague Sol,
(Anthony Solomon, an Ozzie who trained with us in London and Is now head of the
WHO trachoma prog) about the need for mapping to establish disease burdens. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We were shown a short film about trachoma. Elimination
of trachoma is going to be difficult, the elimination promise is reliant on the
drug company Pfzier continuing to supply Azithromycin for treatment in
communities. I predict this will be needed for decades in Ethiopia to treat
infection <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and also improved living
conditions.</span><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The Conference was advertised as
being paperless and one found out about the programme <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>though an app that I was initially suspicious
of but soon enjoyed using. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The conference is keen on
elimination of disease and the latest disease to be targeted with elimination
was launched, podoconiosis.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I fear that
elimination will create the same challenges we have seen in Leprosy where
perception of elimination caused a loss of resources and effort for managing
leprosy. Podoconiosis can be prevented by people wearing shoes but it will
takes decades. Alex visited Baha Dar in N Ethiopia to photograph the
podoconiosis work there and found that no-one was wearing shoes even in the
programme.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I enjoyed the conference with
new<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>approaches to disease control such
as behavior modification and meeting people working in different fields. It was
refreshing to be at a medical conference where the patients had a stronger
voice and people talked about human rights. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;"><o:p><br /></o:p></span></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VOmh7gZASOc/W_xJdnxwAJI/AAAAAAAAAMA/C0ZS9l7X7Ng_RscGCuBUtE0xg_seaid6wCEwYBhgL/s1600/weaver%2Baddis%2B2018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VOmh7gZASOc/W_xJdnxwAJI/AAAAAAAAAMA/C0ZS9l7X7Ng_RscGCuBUtE0xg_seaid6wCEwYBhgL/s320/weaver%2Baddis%2B2018.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: small;">weaving in a co-operative in Addis abba</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7hogbiNcRMg/W_xJVh16oCI/AAAAAAAAAMA/2oXFHxT2rkEQEvmJvfP-1PSRlC24Wfx7gCEwYBhgL/s1600/Berkie%2Bnotice.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7hogbiNcRMg/W_xJVh16oCI/AAAAAAAAAMA/2oXFHxT2rkEQEvmJvfP-1PSRlC24Wfx7gCEwYBhgL/s320/Berkie%2Bnotice.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2473465352391748799.post-64891422268906563032018-11-18T14:20:00.002+00:002018-11-18T14:23:27.717+00:00Bergen – Norway’s Leprosy Museum<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
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explore the leprosy museum. This is an important part of the leprosy historical
record and had leprosy patients for over 200 years.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Hansen worked there showing that leprosy was
caused by bacteria, newly discovered in the 19 century. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>Later leprosy became a curable infection and
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="mso-layout-grid-align: none; mso-pagination: none; text-autospace: none;">
<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">We arrived in Bergen at midnight but it was still light and a vast
full moon hovered in the sky.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>We explored
the harbor and had an expensive beer in a lively bar. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">The leprosy hospital was established in 1760’s<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and patients had their leprosy manifestations
managed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>In the 19<sup>th</sup> century
Norway had unexplained high rates of leprosy with Norwegians acquiring their
disease there. A Norwegian leprosy register was set up in 1856 <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>and maps created of district leprosy rates.
Here in 1888 Hansen showed that leprosy was caused by a bacterial infection.
This changed leprosy into a treatable infection (1946), it had long been feared
as hereditary. The leprosy hospital is a short walk from central Bergen. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The religious origins of the leprosy hospital
are visible with a large sixteenth century church, St Jorgen and hospital with other
buildings kitchen, brewery and herb garden making the complex self-sufficient. The
main museum has<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">two bedded cells on two floor all visible and it feels is
prison-like. Banners hung in the cells with 19 century paintings of patients
and Norwegian narratives. The church had boxed pews and a 18 century altarpiece
showing Christ treating leprosy patients. Patients sitting behind the altar were
partially hidden from the congregation.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The herb garden is well tended and we enjoyed
sitting there. We were guided by an Estonian helper who spoke good english. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">We explored cells and the banner displays reading the Norwegian
translations. There were interesting scientific disputes and bad ethical
behaviuor in the 19 th century. Hansen was a young physician challenging his
master, Daniellson (also his father in law) over his antiquated beliefs and
using the latest science, bacteriology, to back his claims. Hansen argued that
leprosy was caused by bacteria and took material from patients. The German
doctor Neisser created a scientific dispute by taking the samples Hansen showed
him as possibly causing leprosy and visualising the bacteria by using the pathological
stains invented in the 19 century. He then claimed in a journal to have
discovered the cause of leprosy giving himself scientific priority. Hansens’
discovery was later re-accredited to him. Hansen also behaved unethically. He
wanted to demonstrate the transmissibility of leprosy and he transferred potentially
infectious material from a patients’ nodule to a woman’s cornea to see if she
developed leprosy. She already had one type of leprosy so this was not a good
scientific model to choose. He was sued by the woman and his right to look
after leprosy patients was removed.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It
was impressive that a poor woman had done this. It is surprising that Hansen
still has his name associated with the disease when he did these unethical experiments.
<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">I sat in one of the cells and imagined being a patient. I could
have been a Norwegian farm worker in my twenties and developing numbness in my
hands and feet.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I would have seen my
doctor who would have been puzzled by my symptoms.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>It probably would have taken a few years for
my medical problems to be recognized as leprosy and then I might have been
moved to the leprosy hospital. I think the strict regime would have upset me.
Because there was no treatment I would have stayed in the hospital for the rest
of my life. I wonder how often family visited the inmates? <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-US" style="color: #353535; font-family: "calibri"; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: AppleSystemUIFont; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">It was v moving being there again and a strong sense of the
people who were patients there. It captures the scientific aspects of leprosy
medical history well. There was a piece of modern art depicting the names of
everyone who had leprosy in Norway.<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>The
beautiful museum is part of local culture and we saw a striking young couple
(Norwegian and African) having their wedding photos there. So the museum is now
an acceptable part of Bergen history.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<!--EndFragment--><br />Dianahttp://www.blogger.com/profile/14976637456219634913noreply@blogger.com0